For the main part of our trip to Croatia, Marc and I decided to spend it on the island Hvar, which is about an hour ‘s ferry ride from Split. After a bumpy journey, we arrived at the most beautiful yacht-lined port. The island felt like a safe little haven, out on its own and miles from anywhere else.
Our little apartment was right on the sea front, about a fifteen minute walk from the main square. It had a terrace twice the size of the inside, and a private little footpath down to the sea.
Our days were spent baking on the terrace, listening to music and reading. I managed to get through The Handmaids Tale, The Most Dangerous Place on Earth, Year of Yes, and Difficult Women, which is no mean feat considering I’ve had the same unfinished book on my bedside table since summer 2016. I loved them all, but particularly The Most Dangerous Place on Earth by Lindsey Lee Johnson which is set in an affluent Californian high school. It’s a compelling story of adolescence with some dark twists and turns. I highly recommend it, if you’re looking for your next fiction fix.
This part of our trip was really about taking it slow and doing next to nothing. We sipped on white wine spritzers and cold beers, and when we were suitably sweaty, padded down to the sea to cool off.
On a relaxing holiday like this, with nothing much to do but bake in the sun, I always look forward to that time of day when I can shower off, slather on lotions and oils, and head into the town to toast the sunset with drinks before dinner. We were truly spoilt with the sunset in Hvar. Looking through my photos, I think we may have gotten a bit snap happy, but golden hour on this little island is pretty special.
Our holiday diet for the whole trip was grilled sea bream, tomato salad and grilled fresh prawns. In Hvar we found the best seafood spaghetti which had been cooked in a fish broth, at a beautiful little family run courtyard restaurant called Junior. After feasting, we’d wander around the cobbled streets, stopping for drinks when we came across a good people watching spot.
A couple of nights, we decided to cook at the apartment, one of the main reasons we love Airbnb. Not only does it keep costs down, but we love to go to food markets and try out the local produce. Never anything fancy, just tomatoes, salad, bread and pastries. We stayed in a basic but sweet Airbnb, and our host, a Liverpudlian lady who’d lived in Hvar for forty years, told us stories about the war. The brutality and immense human suffering; I found it hard to reconcile in my head how recent and how close to home this was.
There’s a cluster of islands nearby that you can get a water taxi over to for a day of sunbathing at the beach clubs. After hearing they’re a rip off, we gave the party islands a miss, instead opting to go to a quieter, nudist island for a day to work on our tan lines.
Croatia really is a beautiful part of the world and already I can’t wait to go back and explore some more.